5 Step guide on how to fix leaking shower heads

December 29, 2025

Leaking shower heads are a common household problem that can waste water and increase bills. This guide is for homeowners and DIYers looking for a straightforward, step-by-step solution. You'll learn the most common causes of leaks and how to fix them in five easy steps. This 5-step method covers: turn off water, remove and inspect the shower head, clean and replace worn parts, reseal threads, then reassemble and test.

Key Takeaways

Most leaking shower heads in typical homes (built 1980–2024) are caused by worn washers, O-rings, loose connections, or mineral build-up rather than major pipe faults.
The most common reasons and common causes of leaking shower heads include dirty nozzles or bad seals, which are frequent culprits behind persistent drips.
The 5-step method covers: turn off water, remove and inspect the shower head, clean and replace worn parts, reseal threads, then reassemble and test.
A steady drip can waste over 9,000 litres of water per year and noticeably increase water bills in cities like Melbourne or Sydney.
If leaks persist after replacing washers and cartridges, the problem likely sits in the mixer, valve, or pipework and needs a licensed plumber.
Regular cleaning (every 3–6 months) and timely replacement of rubber parts can keep a shower head working leak-free for 5–10 years

Looking for a replacement instead ? Check out our great range of Shower Heads

Why Your Shower Head Is Leaking

That constant drip from your shower head at 3am isn’t just annoying—it’s a sign something needs attention. Before you start repairs, it’s important to understand the common causes and most common reasons for a leaking shower head.

Common Leak Locations

You might notice water seeping from the joint where the head meets the arm, spray shooting sideways instead of straight down, or mouldy grout forming under the shower recess. These are all symptoms of a leaking shower that’s gone beyond normal wear. Visible shower leaks typically originate from one of three places: the shower head itself, the connection point at the shower arm, or the tap and mixer components hidden behind the wall. When checking for leaks, be sure to inspect the pipe threads for any signs of damage or corrosion. Understanding where the leak starts helps you figure out whether this is a quick DIY fix or something requiring professional help.

Hard Water Effects

If you live in a hard-water area—parts of Victoria, South Australia, for example—limescale deposits accelerate seal wear significantly. Calcium content exceeding 120 mg/L can cause O-ring compression and washer embrittlement within 2–5 years of typical use. Mineral buildup in the shower head can also block nozzles and cause leaks.

Worn Components

Over time, components like washers and O-rings can start wearing thin, which often leads to leaks in the shower head.

Key Terms Explained

Washer: A small rubber or plastic ring that forms a seal inside the shower head to prevent leaks.
O-ring: A round rubber seal that fits inside the shower head or arm connection.
Cartridge: An internal valve component that controls water flow and temperature.

This step by step guide focuses on fixing leaks at or around the shower head itself, not major hidden pipe leaks behind tiles.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply and Prepare the Area

The first step to fixing a leaking shower head is to turn off the water supply at the shutoff valves or the main supply.

Find and Close the Isolation Valve

Start by locating the shut off valve for your bathroom or shower. In most homes built after 1980, you’ll find an isolation valve either:

Behind an access panel near the shower
Under the bathroom vanity
In a nearby cupboard or utility space

Turn the valve clockwise until it stops. If you can’t find a local valve, you’ll need to turn off the water at the main supply. This is usually located at the front of the property (near the water meter in Australia) or under the kitchen sink (common in UK flats).

Release Pressure and Confirm Shutoff

Once the valve is closed, turn on the shower for a few seconds. This releases any remaining water pressure in the lines and confirms the water is actually off. You should see water flow reduce to nothing within 10–15 seconds.

Protect Your Work Area

Lay an old towel in the base of the shower to cushion dropped parts and absorb drips. Cover the drain with a plug or folded cloth—small washers and O rings love disappearing down open drains.

Gather Your Basic Tools

Before starting, collect everything you need:

Adjustable wrench or adjustable spanner
Soft cloth or masking tape (to protect chrome finishes)
White vinegar
Small bowl or container
New washers and O-rings (if you already have them)
Plumber’s tape (Teflon tape)
Old toothbrush for cleaning

Having a few basic tools ready means you won’t need to stop mid-repair with water dripping everywhere.

Step 2: Remove the Shower Head and Inspect for Obvious Damage

Careful removal lets you inspect both the shower head and the arm threads, including the pipe threads, for wear, cracks, or corrosion. This is where you’ll often spot the source of minor leaks immediately.

Unscrew the Shower Head

Try unscrewing the shower head by hand first—about 60% of shower heads come off without tools if they haven’t been over-tightened or left in place for years. Grip the knurled base (the textured ring where it connects to the arm) and turn anti-clockwise.

If it won’t budge, wrap a soft cloth around the connection point and use an adjustable wrench. The cloth prevents scratching the chrome finish—scratched fixtures account for nearly 40% of hardware store returns.

Turn the wrench on the shower head fitting, not the shower arm itself. Applying too much force to the arm can bend or crack the pipe coming out of the wall.

Check for Visible Damage

Once removed, inspect these areas:

Threads on the shower head inlet: Look for corrosion, cross-threading, or stripped sections
Threads on the shower arm: Check for similar damage and black residue (which can indicate bacterial slime alongside minerals)
Body of the shower head: Look for cracks in plastic or metal, water stains around joints, and white or green mineral deposits

Examine Internal Components

Look inside the inlet of the shower head for a rubber washer, O-ring, or filter screen. A worn washer will appear flattened, cracked, or brittle. If it’s missing entirely, that’s your leak culprit right there.

Place all removed parts in a small container or on a tray. Consider taking a quick phone photo of the assembly order—this makes reassembly much easier and prevents the common issue of parts going back in the wrong sequence.

Step 3: Clean Mineral Build-Up and Inspect/Replace Washers or O-Rings

Limescale and grime don’t just reduce water flow—they can push water past seals and create paths for drips. Even a small amount of mineral deposits wedged against a washer can turn a minor issue into a persistent drip.

Soak the Shower Head

Prepare a cleaning solution of 50/50 white vinegar and warm water in a bowl or bucket. Submerge the shower head body and let it soak for 20–30 minutes. For severe build up, extend this to several hours or overnight.

Vinegar’s acetic acid dissolves up to 90% of calcium and magnesium scale according to laboratory testing. This method achieves an 85% success rate for minor leaks versus just 20% when using pliers and force alone.

Avoid soaking decorative plated hoses or handles unless necessary—prolonged vinegar exposure can dull certain finishes.

Scrub Away Deposits

After soaking, use an old toothbrush or soft nylon brush to scrub:

Nozzle faces (the spray holes)
Internal passages and chambers
Threads inside and outside the connection point

White, green, or brown deposits should come away relatively easily after soaking. For stubborn spots, a gentle scrub with a paste of bicarb soda works well.

Clean Internal Filters and Screens

Many modern shower heads have removable filters or mesh screens inside. If your head has screws or clips holding it together:

Carefully undo them and note the assembly order
Remove any filter screens
Clean them under running water
Check for holes or tears that could let debris through

Rinse everything thoroughly with clean water before moving to the next step.

Inspect and Replace Washers or O-Rings

Using a small flat screwdriver or pick, carefully pry out the old washer or O-ring from the shower head inlet. Look for:

Cracks or splits in the rubber
Flattening (loss of the round profile)
Stiffness or brittleness when you flex it
Debris stuck to the sealing surface

A worn out washer that’s been compressed thousands of times loses its ability to form a tight seal. After 18–24 months of typical use, most rubber washers show compression set—they simply can’t bounce back to create a watertight barrier.

Take your old washer or O ring to a local hardware store or plumbing merchant. Matching the exact diameter and thickness is critical for a proper seal. Even being 1–2mm off can cause the leak to continue or worsen.

Conical rubber washers tend to outperform flat washers by about 40% in seal integrity, according to hardware testing. Consider upgrading if your current washer is flat.

Dealing with Faulty Mixer Cartridges

If you’ve replaced the washer or O ring and the shower still drips when off, the problem likely sits with the mixer cartridge—the internal component that controls water flow and temperature.

Cartridge Replacement Process

Remove the handle (often secured with a small screw behind a cap, or an allen key bolt)
Take off the trim plate or escutcheon
Loosen the retaining nut or clip holding the cartridge
Pull out the old cartridge (a cartridge puller tool helps for stuck units)
Insert an identical new cartridge
Reassemble in reverse order

If you’re unsure of your tap or cartridge type, take clear photos or bring the old part to the store. Different manufacturers use proprietary designs that aren’t interchangeable.

For recessed valves or systems requiring special tools, consider calling a professional plumber rather than risking further damage.

Know When to Replace Instead of Restore

Heavily corroded shower heads from the 1990s or early 2000s may simply be too far gone. If the metal is pitted, the plastic is cracked, or threads are stripped, it’s more cost-effective to replace the entire unit. Quality replacement heads start around $30–50 and will last years longer than a patched-up old model. If you choose to replace the shower head, be sure to properly install the new fixture according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 4: Wrap Teflon Tape Around Threads Before Reattaching

Careful reassembly and thorough testing confirm whether your repair has worked. Using plumber's tape, also known as Teflon tape, on the threads during reassembly ensures a proper seal and helps prevent future leaks. Rushing this step is how many minor leaks become ongoing frustrations.

Apply Thread Tape Correctly

Take your teflon tape (also called plumber’s tape or thread tape) and wrap the shower arm threads:

Wind clockwise (when looking at the end of the threads)
Keep the tape flat and taut, not bunched
Apply 3–4 neat layers, overlapping each pass by about half
Stop before the very end of the threads to prevent fragments entering the waterway

Thread tape fills microscopic gaps in the threads, creating a seal that prevents water from seeping through the connection. Without it, even properly tightened joints can develop slow leaks.

Reattach the Shower Head

Screw the shower head back onto the arm by hand. Turn clockwise until it feels snug—this hand tightening is usually sufficient for most connections.

If you want extra security, wrap a soft cloth around the fitting and use your adjustable wrench for a final gentle nip—no more than a quarter turn past hand tight. Over tightening is a common mistake that cracks plastic housings or strips metal threads on the shower arm.

Using too much force accounts for about 5% of shower arm breaks, which then require cutting into the wall for repair.

Step 5: Run the Shower and Check for Leaks

Restore water at the shut off valve, opening it slowly to avoid pressure surges.

Test Thoroughly

Run the shower at full temperature for 30 seconds.
Check for drips at the joint between head and arm.
Inspect the face of the shower head for leaks around nozzles.
Look at the handle, mixer plate, or wall area for any seepage.

If a slow drip remains at the joint, turn off the water and recheck:

Is the new washer seated correctly (flat side against the shower arm)?
Did the thread tape bunch up or get cross-threaded?
Is the connection hand tight plus a small wrench turn, no more?

When Something’s Still Not Right

If water leaks from behind the wall plate, runs into the ceiling below, or the persistent drip continues despite your repairs, stop. These signs indicate the problem is beyond the shower head—it’s in the valve body, cartridge, or hidden pipework. This is when you call a professional.

When DIY Isn’t Enough (And You Should Call a Plumber)

Some shower leaks point to hidden pipework or valve damage that goes beyond what a new washer and some vinegar can fix. Recognising these situations early saves you time and prevents water damage that compounds repair costs. Professional plumbers have the expertise to stop leaking showers quickly and reliably, ensuring the issue is resolved before it leads to further water wastage or damage.

Signs You Need Professional Help

Call a licensed plumber if you experience:

Continued dripping after replacing washers, O-rings, and cartridges
Visible damp patches on ceilings below the bathroom
Mouldy or swollen plasterboard around the shower enclosure
Sudden drops in water pressure when the shower runs
Water pooling at the base of walls or behind the toilet
Hot water running when only cold is selected (indicating valve failure)

Older homes with pre-1980 copper systems—or mixed copper and galvanised pipework—often develop pinhole leaks behind tiles. These tiny holes are invisible until water damage appears, and they require professional leak detection equipment to locate accurately.

What a Plumber Can Do That You Can’t

A licensed plumber has tools and expertise for:

Pressure-testing the entire system to identify hidden leaks
Inspecting mixer bodies with specialised cameras
Replacing components recessed within walls without unnecessary tile damage
Identifying whether leaks originate from supply lines, drain connections, or the fixture itself

The Cost of Waiting Too Long

Ignoring professional-level leaks leads to:

Structural damage to wall framing and floor joists
Warped flooring and subfloor replacement
Recurring mould that requires professional remediation
Potential insurance complications if damage is deemed preventable

Timely intervention from a professional almost always costs less than major water damage repairs.

How to Prevent Future Shower Head Leaks

A few regular maintenance habits can greatly extend the life of your shower fittings and prevent future leaks before they start. Most homeowners who experience recurring shower problems simply haven’t established these routines.

Clean Regularly to Prevent Mineral Buildup

Soak your shower head in vinegar every 3–6 months if you live in a hard-water area. For softer-water regions, once a year is usually sufficient. This regular maintenance keeps nozzles clear and prevents mineral deposits from degrading seals.

You don’t need to remove the head each time—tie a plastic bag filled with vinegar around the shower head and leave it overnight for a hands-off clean.

Inspect Connections Before Problems Appear

Every few months, take 30 seconds to look at the connection between the shower arm and head. Early signs of trouble include:

Water stains or discolouration around the joint
Rust spots on chrome fittings
Hairline cracks in plastic housings
Loose connections that wobble when touched

Catching these early means a simple fix rather than emergency repairs.

Replace Rubber Parts Proactively

Don’t wait for many minor leaks to become one major problem. Replace inexpensive rubber washers and O-rings every 2–3 years, especially in heavily used family showers. A $3 pack of replacement washers costs far less than the water wasted by a worn out washer dripping for months.

Silicone O-rings last roughly twice as long as standard rubber in chlorinated water, making them worth the small price premium.

Upgrade When It Makes Sense

When replacing an old shower head, consider modern water-saving or limescale-resistant models. These designs:

Reduce water use by up to 30% without sacrificing water pressure
Feature self-sealing elastomers that cut repair frequency
Use ceramic disc technology rated for over 1 million cycles
Are easier to disassemble for cleaning and maintenance

A quality shower head costs $50–100 and typically lasts 5–10 years with minimal attention.

Check out are huge range of Bathroom Fixtures at fittings!

FAQ: Fixing and Preventing Leaking Shower Heads

Will a leaking shower head always mean I need to replace it, or can I usually repair it with new washers and cleaning alone?

Most leaking shower heads can be repaired rather than replaced. Industry data suggests around 70% of shower head leaks resolve without needing new parts at all—just cleaning and proper reassembly. If the leak persists after cleaning, a new washer or O-ring fixes the vast majority of remaining cases. You should only consider replacement when the head itself is cracked, severely corroded, or has stripped threads that won’t hold a tight seal. Budget plastic heads (under $15) are often more economical to replace than repair, while quality metal fixtures are almost always worth fixing.

How long should it take to fix a typical leaking shower head from start to finish for a DIYer with basic tools?

For a straightforward washer replacement with light cleaning, expect 20–30 minutes from turning off the water to testing the completed repair. If heavy mineral buildup requires extended soaking, add the soak time (20 minutes to overnight) but your active work remains about half an hour. Cartridge replacement in the mixer valve adds complexity—budget 45–60 minutes for a first-timer, as you’ll need to identify the correct replacement part and carefully disassemble the handle assembly. Having all tools and parts ready before starting significantly reduces total time.

Is it safe to use strong chemical descalers instead of vinegar when cleaning a shower head, and can they damage chrome or rubber seals?

Strong chemical descalers work faster than vinegar but carry risks. Phosphoric or hydrochloric acid-based products can damage chrome plating, pit brass fittings, and degrade rubber seals if left too long or used at full strength. If you choose a commercial descaler, dilute it according to instructions, limit contact time to 10–15 minutes maximum, and rinse thoroughly. For routine maintenance, white vinegar (acetic acid) is safer, cheaper, and effective against 90% of household limescale. Citric acid solutions offer a middle ground—stronger than vinegar but gentler than commercial chemicals.

My shower only leaks when it’s running, not when it’s off—what does that usually indicate?

Leaks that appear only during use typically point to loose connections, cracked housings, or clogged nozzles forcing water in unintended directions. Start by checking whether the joint between the shower head and arm is snug—hand tightening followed by a gentle wrench turn often stops leaking showers caused by loose connections. If water sprays from the face rather than dripping from the connection, blocked nozzles are redirecting pressure through gaps in the housing. Cracks in plastic shower heads also open under water pressure and close when the pressure drops. These running-only leaks are usually simpler to fix than drips that continue after shutdown.

Can a leaking shower head affect my home insurance if it causes water damage over time?

Gradual water damage from a persistent drip that you’ve left unchecked may not be covered by standard home insurance policies. Most insurers distinguish between sudden, accidental damage (covered) and gradual damage from poor maintenance (often excluded). If a leaking shower causes ceiling damage, mould, or structural issues over weeks or months, your claim could be denied or reduced if the insurer determines the problem was preventable. Document any leaks with photos and dates, make repairs promptly, and keep receipts for parts or plumber visits. Addressing even minor leaks quickly protects both your home and your insurance position.